Day 9: Tufton to Pelcomb Bridge, 48.28m

Strange how soon what is taken for granted becomes commonplace; a bed, electricity; warmth. It's been lovely. Had a cooked breakfast and still managed to get away just after 7 am. The sun was up and there was an inversion in the valley; it was full of mist down there but clear where I was. Neville predicted it would burn off later.
Set off and it was cold! Not complaining as it was dry, but very chilly. It was such a good start to the day, leaving a lovely place and people like that. Those I met on the road to say ' good morning' were not so friendly. Most often, all I got by way of a response was a level stare. Was it because I was female, a cyclist, English/ outsider, or do folk not say hello to each other here?
Lots of dairy farming here. Stopped to watch a herd taken from parlour to field, was overtaken by a milk tanker, and a few miles out of St Davids, rode carefully on a road where it was clear that cattle had recently passed. Down the road saw said cattle ( including a very young calf) and the farmer tying up the gate with string. Since his vehicle completely blocked the narrow road, I stopped. No rush, I said as he dashed back. Late for church, he said Interesting.
A mile or so further on, saw lots of cars parked by the side of the road, and then heard a bell start to ring. I asked a lady walking behind me if a service was about to start - it was 9:30 - and would I be welcome? So it was that in Wales, hot- bed of Methodism, I ended up going to a C of E ( Wales) service.
The church was lovely; small, plain, white, decorated with flowers and the sun streaming in over the table. I had my shell jacket, so didn't look too violently fluorescent.
Turned out it was a special service as their vicar was moving to a new parish, but I was still made welcome ( and even managed to cope with communion!).
It was still sunny and warm; the mist had indeed burned off. It was good to feel the sun on my back and to see my shadow in front of me - for the last day, as if there is any sun from now on, my shadow will be behind me!

The ' if' regarding sunshine...
Got to St Davids and went to White sands Bay, which is the closest to St Davids Head that you can go with a bike.  Looked at the sea, full of surfers today as the wind was up, had my pic taken by a kind German tourist, and felt - well rather flat actually. That's part of the problem with arbitrary points. There is no signpost to say ' you've done it! Thus far and no further'. It didn't help that it was now starting to rain.
Visited St Justinians and then went into St Davids. A wet Sunday afternoon does not do any town any favours. Looked for somewhere to change my book as I've read both my disposable novels, but no luck. Stopped for ale and cake by way of celebration, for a given value of ' celebration'. And then took bike route 4 out of town, in the pouring rain.
I mentally apologised to Jean as all the gear that had dripped and dried on her Rayburn soaked through again. And I have to say I was annoyed that the wind was still in my face - and with a steep downhill, the rain really stings.  Kept a line of song going: Soon enough/ Soon enough/ This will all be a memory...
Went past Newgale and its campsite which I noticed was heavily puddled, yet there were tents up. Not too wet there, then.
The surf was really rolling now and there were lots of people out, windsurfing and also surfing with kites. I bet they got some speed up.
Through Nolton and on to Pelcomb Bridge which has campsite with pub ( note the order of priority). £10 isn't cheapest but I got a decent dinner and a head start on tomorrow.  Really want to push on and get home now.
By the way, it did stop raining!

Day 8: Cilycwm to Tufton, 67.8 miles

Woke early, much rested, packed as quietly as possible and was on road at 6:30. Slightly concerned to hear very faint noise of moisture pattering on the tent, but it was just a thin bit of cloud.
Set off to grapple with the hills again, much the same as yesterday only with slightly more energy. Still walking up most of them though! One bit was just constant up and down so to stay cycling I was changing gears every few seconds. Using the granny ring most of the time now. ( This is the smallest ring on the triple and best for getting up steep hills ( albeit very slowly - did you know it's possible to cycle at less than 3mph?) but I prefer Toria's explanation of a granny ring as a group of old ladies that help me up hills. I like the idea of octegenarian domestiques!J.
The mist got a bit thicker, more of a mizzle, but in essence I was still only in a cloud. And gradually it got wetter and wetter until it could be said to be raining, and then having got the hang of it, it set to raining in earnest.
I'm afraid that nearly all the villages I went through looked the same, and even thought I'd gone wrong and ended back at a previous one at one point. Will add the place names later, it's not easy on this. Did go into Llandysul for food as wasn't sure of finding a shop further on. Found a Nisa and got a hot pork chop, chicken leg and cheese and onion pasty for lunch. And more Welshcakes! They never last long. Had most of it there in the car park. Never ceases to amaze me, the hunger that cycling generates. Unfortunately being hungry is not always synonymous with wanting to eat.
Up more hills, through more Forestry Commission woodland, noticed first rhododendrons then heather and gorse. Then a surprise on the way to Cymych found myself going over open moorland. Quite different and so sudden. Just like being on the Pennine Way with a ribbon of road stretching up the hill. Bleak and desolate ( and wet) but I liked it.
Went through Felindre so must have gone up Allt Hiraeth ( homesick hill). Was thinking rather longingly of being dry... And warm... And of coffee.
Had some interesting features in my notes to look out for including standing stones and burial chambers, but the only standing stone I saw was a memorial to a local poet. Interesting landscape there - this on the road to Rosebush - large rocks everywhere, some moss covered, the sheep cropped grass and some gorse, and this memorial. ( Apparently there is a fantastic view from there on a good day, of Snowdon in the north and the Wicklow mountains in Ireland to the west. But this was not a good day.)
A long haul up an increasingly foggy road and * finally* got to Rosebush which has been the focus of my attention for two or three days now. Got to the campsite. It had a shop! things were looking up.
And then they were't. Sorry, said the chap, we haven't had tents for a few weeks, only caravans on the hard standing. Too wet, do you see?
Ah. So where can I go?
There might be, it appeared, a couple of campsites on the Fishguard road. Sorry. Bye.
I didn't want to go to Fishguard. Nothing personal but it wasn't on my route and I'd already done over 60 miles, it was still raining and the fog was getting thicker. But clearly I had to move so it might as well be in that direction. Something would come up. If all else failed I would have to wild camp.
Then I saw a sign for a B&B, and took no persuading to follow it. To not have to put the tent up in the rain, to dry out, a hot shower ( my legs were almost black with road dirt) - real fluffy towels, a bed... And it was all as good as it sounds. I am a guest of Jean and Neville Llewellyn of Golwyg-y-Fro in Tufton. I don't know if I would have given me the welcome they did and it's a lot to ask, taking in a really soggy cyclist. Jean washed my gear, stuffed my shoes with paper, more or less escorted me directly to the shower room and made me a huge tea. What can you say but ' wow'. It was just what I needed. It's still raining, but the forecast isn't too bad for tomorrow, I've done 616 miles so far and apparently it's only 17 more to St Davids. Its all good.

Day 7: Hay on Wye to Cilycwm. 47.39 miles

Left Hay at 7am, taking the Brecon road, which would have pleased the campsite manager. When I told him my planned route he assured me that the quickest way was the A road to Brecon and straight on to St Davids. It was too difficult to explain that the journey is the experience and St Davids only an arbitrary point to aim for, so I said something about looking at the map and ended the conversation. (I was falling over tired and just wanted to get the tent up and dinner on).
This morning's ride seemed to prove my point, if only to myself. There were pleasant lanes, the slate softened by moss and bracken. The first bike path was an old railway line, now a minor road, and I stopped at Ellwood station ( now a cafe) for a snack and to take a jacket off. Chilly morning and it couldn't seem to decide whether to burn the mist off for another hot day, or rain.
Very tired though and found every hill hard going. This was becoming more of a walking holiday than a cycling one.  Still ahead of tomorrow, but there was no way I could do nearly 100 miles to get to Rosebush. Decided to find one in between, have a half rest day today and easier day tomorrow; will still aim for Rosebush but it will be 50 odd miles instead of 70.
Found a site marked on the map so headed up road and came across this one, an unmarked C&C right close to my route. Lovely long grass, very peaceful ( all I can hear are sheep and birds) £3.
Picked up some food in Builth and have my book. It's sunny and the tent drying nicely.
I've been trying to send this a few times but it keeps failing, so if you don't get it until tomorrow, that's why.

Comberton to Hay on Wye 83.9 miles

Long hard day. Forgive notes, will fill out later.
Cold am - suddenly Sept! Saw balloon, good sign. Mist over river. Lovely golden morning. Photos and shopping in Petshore then small roads to Malvern. Hard going. Av speed never double figs. Past show ground and steep zigzag uphill. Like approaching a wall. Tough. Not much flatter other side. Through Herefordshire. Red earth, apples, hops. Decided to push on to Hay but long hard uphill to get here. Desperately need a shower, very hot day. Eagles over Hay Bluff? Not kites and noisy. Pic of Hay clock.

St Peters Church, Pirton

Day 5: Emberton to Gt Comberton 83.42 miles

Emberton turned out to be the campsite from hell.   Was placed directly opposite a huge party of children with accompanying raucous women, all of whom seemed incapable of talking to each other in anything less than a shout. They're only kids, I thought grimly. They'll go to bed soon. They didn't. But when they did, the adults sat up to continue the party. One woman in particular had a very loud laugh and seemed to find a great deal to amuse her. At about 2:10 am I asked them ( more politely than I felt) to keep the noise down. At 3am they settled down.
So after about 5 hours of broken sleep I was not a happy person in the morning. Packed up ( noisily I'm afraid) and set off at 6:45, determined to shake the dust off my wheels.
Dull and cloudy again but saw a hot air balloon first thing which took as good sign, since they hate the wind more than I do.
Through Olney and Salcey Forest to Stoke Bruerne and up to Blisworth. This is a bit of road that I should do again at the end of the trek only turning east for home then instead of west.
Through the stone built villages of South Northants until saw some ' stop HS2' signs and I was in my third county of the day at Wormleighton in Warwickshire.
Country getting very hilly now. Got over 30 mph on four different hills today, so you can just imagine the climbs up the other side.
Stopped off at Burton Dussett country park as was in hope of coffee and large slab of cake. Alas no cafe,  but loos, and interesting view. Was a quarry site, now somewhere to picnic, cycle and walk. Nice.
Had crossed M1 earlier, now crossed M40 towards Wellesbourne. A farmer I worked for once kept his dry ( Jersey) cows there, and my memories of the place were Dylan Thomas like; hay meadows, golden light, green lanes, heck probably even a swallow thronged loft or two. But Wellesbourne is a suburban little town with traffic hurrying through to Stratford, though Im sure my lane and that meadow are there, somewhere.
Went to Stratford via Loxeley to avoid the busy B road. Nice to see Stratford again. Feel I'm getting somewhere now. Had a brie and cranberry baguette with coffee and did a little shopping; one of my gas canisters was playing up this morning so got a spare, and also a  bottle opener.
Was due to camp here but far too early, so started on tomorrow's route through Bidford- on- Avon and Harrington to Wyre Piddle and footpath to Pershore. Now in Worcestershire, fourth county of the day. Also on third river, having left the Ouse for the Nene and now the Avon.
Prrshore looks worthy of a longer visit but all I could fit in was the library ( to find campsite) and shop for food. Can't believe I can't get a bottle of Wyre Piddle ale though!
Excellent campsite at Great Comberton golf course. Whole field to myself - ah the peace! And campsite fee refunded to Cynthia Spencer charity ( thank you!) also got another donation in the clubhouse bar and promise of a third. You could say it's all going very well.

Day 4: Littleport to Emberton - 72 miles

Cloudy again. At least tent was dry to pack. Some sunshine in the morning which made going pleasant. Less wind too.
Little Downham very pleasant. Strange how different the villages are here, to those very austere and lonely places just a few miles north. There is an Anglican- Methodist church here; interesting that they seem to have kept both sites!
Bank holiday over, farm work being done, mostly cultivation but still some harvest to be got in. So on one side is ripe wheat and on the other, next year's crop greening through.
Had a bit of deja vu at Coveney ( went through there on day one). Back through Sutton to Earith and alongside the Hundred Foot Drain, another terribly long straight road. Found this was Huntingdon shire, and have to think it rather dull...
Crossed A1M at 37 miles, doing good time, but went astray at Alconbury ( too many of them ) so had to go through Woolley and Barham. Some rolling countryside more; managed 36mph on downhill to Spaldwick. Crossed A14 and went on to Kimbolton for lunch. Stopped at Olivers and had the most appreciated jacket spud ever and a nice long break with book and coffee.
Came out to unlock bike, only to find I couldn't. Fiddled with it for ages before admitting I was going to need help with this challenge. Went back to Olivers to the shop area and asked to borrow a Yellow Pages. After a minute the girl asked what was up. Explained problem and she immediately nominated her boss to fix it. He could not have been more helpful or more kind. He didn't have any tools but managed to get hold of some bolt cutters and after a few mins, my bike was free. Couldn't thank him enough! Bought new lock from hardware shop and off I went, chuffed by the kindness of strangers.
Through Pertenhall to Swineshead and Riseley. Passed the kennels at Sharnbrook - Rushden just 5 miles up the road. Hello Mum and Dad.
Day got more and more grey, quite depressing; also think I'm tired.  Through Odell, Harrold, Carlton et al to Emberton. Got a pitch at the country park which takes the biscuit for the most ludicrously over priced pitch fee ever at £21. But too tired to find an alternative. Short day tomorrow to Stratford.